Kyrgyzstan Mountain Road

How All Border Crossings Should Be

Next on our route was Kyrgyzstan. Our original plans had us going through Kyrgyzstan but after entering Uzbekistan we were going to head straight to Kazakhstan. As we had picked Frank up we were now back going to Kyrgyzstan again. Had we made the right decision? We were yet to find out at the Dostyk/Dustlyk crossing.

We headed to the gate for the border & were gestured through. The border compound seemed small in comparison to the last few we had been through. John parked Minty & we headed over to a small building. We lined up behind a few others & waited our turn. Whilst we waited, a small group of travellers from Germany arrived. They were doing the Tajik Rally; a charity rally from Munich to Dushanbe, Tajikistan. In other words they were doing the route some of our fellow ralliers were doing but in reverse. We must have got a bit excited to be meeting some fellow ralliers & travellers as we were soon told to be quiet. Oops. Never mind, it didn’t seem to bother the border staff too much as they were happy to chat to us all & share a joke or two while we were waiting.

As we waited, a customs official came in looking for the owners of Minty & the Tajik Rally car. John & one of the other guys went outside whilst we waited for our entry stamps. We were soon outside & as we walked over John & the other guy were being asked to pay an environmental tax. As we had no local currency we had to pay in USD. It was about $20. Rather than try to wriggle our way out of it as we had done before, we just paid the money. The other team were asking how much it was in Euro’s but they didn’t accept Euro’s. However, on the other side of the fence about 20 meters away was a currency exchange. They had worked out it would be a couple of dollars cheaper if they exchanged their Euro’s to Kyrgyzstan Som. I couldn’t be bothered, we just wanted to get on our way to Osh.

Only the car drivers were allowed with the cars & as we had all been stamped into Kyrgyzstan we were ushered out of the border compound & told to wait the other side of the gate for the cars. It wasn’t much longer & everyone was through.

On the other side there were shops or shacks, (not sure which) down one side of the road which seemed to be all shut. There was someone exchanging money but we decided to wait until we got to Osh. Both cars were parked up on the other side of the road drawing a lot of attention from the locals. We were getting a good feeling about Kyrgyzstan. A viking hat that had been given to John for his birthday by Pete & Mikey was on the back seat. The locals pulled it out of Minty & were trying it on. One wanted to keep it as a motorcycle helmet! After some persuading we got the hat back, said goodbye to the locals & we were on our way to Osh to meet Frank’s team, Mischief & Mayhem & their rally companions 40% Nuts.

How relaxed & simple was that? If only all border crossings allowed you to chat with the officials & share a joke. They don’t need to be scary or pompous.

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